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Hilfield
Friary - An Historical Guide
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On the left is an aerial view of the Friary, looking towards the north west. Start outside the refectory side of Saint Francis House, close to the Calvary.
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FRANCIS HOUSE
The land here was part of the large Dorset estates of the Earls of Sandwich and on this land was a small farmhouse.
In 1888, the 8th Earl of Sandwich, who had 'a mania for building', added on the imposing front section that you
see (you can note the date on the stone plaque on the building) in order to make the house into a 'shooting-lodge',
a place he could take guests to stay after a day's hunting in the woods.
It eventually fell into disuse and so in 1912-13, the Earl allowed his nephew and heir (who succeeded as 9th Earl
of Sandwich in 1916) to create a special school for children with social and behavioural problems. Run by the American
psychologist Homer Lane, it was known as the Little Commonwealth. To accommodate the children, several other houses
were built (which we shall see later), and each had a house-mother and a house-father, who cared for a group of
boys and girls.
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The houses were given names based on country plants. The old house before you was called 'Bramble Cottage'. The
work begun by Homer Lane collapsed soon after, under the difficult conditions of the First World War and, after
1918, the place was used for a while to train ex-soldiers in agriculture. Then in December 1921, the 9th Earl agreed
to let the place to Brother Giles and a group of Franciscans so that they could set up a home for wayfarers (homeless
men travelling about the roads of England, searching for work).
Then go into refectory through the big door, the original shooting lodge entrance.
The large room (now the refectory) was once two rooms with a spacious entrance hall in the centre. The internal
walls were demolished by the brothers, one in Spring 1929 (kitchen end), the other in 1936-37 (scullery end) to
make one large dining room, in monastic terms called a Refectory..
On arrival on 17 December 1921, the brothers first prayed in a room upstairs above the kitchen, but the first proper
chapel was the room at the present scullery end of the Refectory. The altar was eventually put in front of the
fireplace and the mantelpiece used as a gradine for candlesticks. It was used as a chapel until 1928. |
| The iron cross on the refectory wall (opposite the entrance) was given in 1956 by a German couple, whose son (Christoph
Versmann) had been very happy staying at the Friary as a guest, but had later been killed on a mountaineering expedition
in Bavaria. They gave it in his memory. Originally, it was in the present St Francis Chapel above the preacher's
box. The Kitchen seems always to have been sited in the same place as today, though the coal-fired Aga cooker is long
gone.
The tailor's shop is housed upstairs in Francis House, where all the habits are made.
Upstairs, also, live half a dozen brothers and other residents.
Go through to the courtyard.
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COURTYARD
In Homer Lane's day, this farmyard was converted into a playground and a badminton court laid in the concrete.
One barn (now the recreation room) was converted into the schoolroom, and to summon the children to class, the
bell was put onto the porch of the main house. The children were taught social skills, and part of this was the
reward of being given token money. This could be saved in a bank or spent in a shop, and these are now combined
to create the Friary shop. The present Giles house was the school office. The back of Saint Francis Chapel was
the laundry and craft workshop.
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In 1928, the brothers, under Douglas, made a new laundry in Saint Francis' House and the old one was converted
into a chapel. A cloister walk on the chapel side was erected in Autumn 1928 and the new chapel was opened that
Christmas.
Today, the Courtyard can be a place of quiet and relaxation, though it becomes a busy thoroughfare in July and
August, when we have first a families' camp for ten days then, after a four day break, ten days of youth campers.
Go into St Francis' Chapel.
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SAINT FRANCIS' CHAPEL
The first chapel here was just the present back part, the altar being where the Enzio Plazzoto triple-crucifix
bronze now is. Note shape of roof to look like a chancel. Enzio Plazzoto came to the Friary in 1971 and asked to
make a gift of it to the community.
Two carved stalls (now in Saint Clare's Chapel) were made by a wayfarer, and other wayfarers made matting for
the floor.
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In 1932, the chapel was enlarged to give an ante-chapel (up to the recess where the ikon of the Holy Trinity now
is) and in c1936 the altar was repositioned to that end. In 1952, Brothers Hugh and Stephen Lambert extended the
chapel to its present length and a new high altar was dedicated by Robert Mortimer, Bishop of Exeter, on 21 December
1953. Dormer windows were put in the roof at this time. New windows were made from wood cut in the surrounding
forest by Br Simon.
The ikon of the Holy Trinity ('after' Rublev) was painted by John Coleman, a former resident of the Friary, and
was a gift from him. |
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The ikon of
the Crucifixion is a painted copy of the original in St Damian's Church in
Assisi, when our holy father Francis heard the words, 'Francis, rebuild my
Church, which you see is falling down. |
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The ikon
of the Blessed Virgin and Child was a gift from the Patriarch of Moscow. The Statue of 'Francis the Teacher' was carved by a MaKondi craftsman in Tanzania, and was a gift from four
young doctors who went to work in East Africa specifically as a group of Companions of SSF. |
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Proceed to Clare House and stop on the lawn
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CLARE HOUSE
This was the first of the houses built by Homer Lane, with the children helping the contractors in the construction.
It was known then as Bracken Cottage and was the house in which Homer Lane and his wife acted as house-father and
house-mother. When the brothers came, it was occupied from 1922-24 by Major Lloyd (and his family) as he, a retired
army officer, had moved there to act as the Treasurer for the Franciscan community.
In 1930, a companion priest and his wife (Peter and Grace Harvey) moved in and for two years ran the house as a
guest and retreat house. At this time it was renamed Clare House and the chapel was created. It was blessed on
14 November 1930. The sacrament has been reserved since c1940, when Father Algy persuaded the Bishop, on the grounds
that the brothers might have to give communion to any dying airman whose plane crashed in the grounds! |
In 1934, the house became the brothers' house, when the wayfarers in Francis House were put under the direction
of a secular warden and a committee of worthies. In 1936, when Father Algy Robertson arrived, it is where he
trained the novices, giving lectures in the library (now the Guardian's office). Father Algy's
room was the one
above.
In the Chapel are a medieval crucifix ( given by Mrs Cowley of Dorchester in February 1956) and relics of Saint
Francis and Saint Benedict, given by Gilbert Shaw in October 1950.
At the back of the house was originally a wooden construction, a workman's hut enlarged by Brother Stephen Lambert
in 1936-37, which was used as a library and guest house. It was demolished in 1966-67 when the present guest house
was built. |
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Move on to Juniper house.
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JUNIPER HOUSE
This was known as Veronica Cottage in Homer Lane's day. Part of it was the home of the Symes' family in the
1920s up to 1938, who for years looked after the gardens. From September to December 1939, it housed evacuee boys
from Southwark and then, from September 1940, Father Owen ran an evacuated Remand Home there. These boys converted
the coal-shed into Saint Mary-of-the-Angels Chapel, the first mass said there being on 17 September, the Feast
of the Stigmata, 1941. The large downstairs room in the house was used, for many years after the War (when the
remand home left) as the Chapter Room.
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CEMETERY
Originally this land was to have had three more houses built on it, clustered around a 'village green' at the
end of the avenue of lime trees. But Homer Lane's plans were never completed. The cemetery was created in 1960,
following the brothers' purchase of the premises from the Earl of Sandwich in 1957. The first interment was Father
Charles in November 1961. It is now the final resting place for all the departed brothers of the European Province
and many of the residents who have died at Hilfield.
Proceed up the avenue to Bernard House.
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BERNARD HOUSE
This was Heather Cottage in the days of the school. When the brothers first came, they ran the farm, too, and
the Earl put in a farm bailiff, Harold Tilby, who lived in this house with his family. In view of the debts the
farm created, the brothers ceased to run it from 1924, and the farm was rented by Albert Vardy. This house then
became his farmhouse.
The family remained quite independent of the brothers, although relations were friendly. In 1961, Albery Vardy
died and his family moved out. The house then became the novice house for a while before being used to house a
home for ex-borstal boys in the late 1960s.
Today, the Minister Provincial lives here, together with the Provincial Bursar and one or two other brothers.
Proceed to Leo House
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LEO HOUSE
This site was where Homer Lane intended to build a large
assembly hall. When the brothers came, the space was eventually used to build an
Industries Hut, opened by Major Lloyd's wife on 1 July 1930. It held five
weaving looms, a printing press and a showroom for goods made by the wayfarers.
The showroom became the place used by the Saint John's Ambulance Brigade in the
last war and so was called the barrack room. It is remembered by senior brothers
as the barrack room in which they spent some of their noviciate! It was
demolished in 1961-2, when the present building was put up. |
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At first, it housed a print shop, which occupied most of the floor space.
The whole of that area (to the right as you come through the corridor) was
converted into a Friary Library in the mid 1970s. To the left, as you come
through the corridor, there is an art room for use by anyone staying in the
Friary.
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THE GARDENS
The vale in which the Friary is sited is fringed by oak, ash and hazel, which effectively conceals it from the
eastern approach, while dense coniferous woodland marks its western boundary.
The Friary has both flower and vegetable gardens in the Friary and also soft fruit, apple and pear trees.
The area which began life as 'the swamp' has been transformed, largely by Brother Vincent, into a beautiful
rhododendron, magnolia and camellia garden and, because of its hiddenness, it is now know as the Secret Garden
- but don't worry, there are signs to it!
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